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Smart textiles and wearable tech with Interwoven Design Group…
Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman, Founder of Interwoven Design Group, LLC and Adjunct Associate Professor at Pratt (bio), joins hosts Stephanie Benedetto and Samanta Cortes at the MouthMedia Network Studios.
Loving fabric, a tool for athletics, and what a wearable can be
Pailes-Friedman discusses specializing in wearable tech and smart textiles, how she loves fabric and worked for years with athletes for their clothing, looking at clothing as a tool for athletics. How she started working in smart textiles beyond clothing to objects that measure biometrics, wrote “Smart Textiles for Designers”, and is looking at what a wearable can and should be, with a focus on making life better.
A glove, a TV show, and Mars
A weightlifting glove, a stint on reality TV with “America’s Greatest Makers”, a prediction that we won’t always be carrying a phone in hand, working on getting people to Mars, working on spacesuits, and the critical nature of collaboration.
Students and professors, trust, and a superpower
Personal questions with “Remnants” reveal meaningful moments with students, trust between professors and students, and a superpower.
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Trims and embellishments with Trimworld…
Louis Nunez, Owner of Trimworld, Inc. (a full service fashion embellishment-manufacturing studio located in the heart of New York City Garment industry – (bio)) joins hosts Stephanie Benedetto and Samanta Cortes at the MouthMedia Network Studios.
Madonna, baseball, and FIT
Nunez discusses how Trimwold work with almost every major designer on trims and embellishments, including Madonna, and has been working almost every type of material, and his favorite is leather. Laser cutting, fringes, a background in professional baseball, learning at FIT, opening up a shop at 29 years old, and how the experience has been wonderful ever since. How the shop set up as a studio and 3,000 feet of factory space, and being in the process of making Olympic Patches.
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Materials in architectural models with Kennedy Fabrications…
Michael Kennedy, Owner/Creative/Engineering Director of Kennedy Fabrications (Interactive real estate development displays, retail / museum installations and architectural model fabrication – (bio)), joins hosts Stephanie Benedetto and Samanta Cortes at the MouthMedia Network Studios.
The impact of 3D printing, machines to cut and shape, and model-making as a career
Kennedy discusses his architectural model shop making high-end residential architectural models around the world for more than 25 years. How he had one of the first 3D printers, dealing with the change in architecture shapes, how 3D printing is very useful, the changes in material technology and changing polymers, and looking at a blueprint sand instantly knowing how to build a model. The complexity of using machines to cut and shape, why there aren’t a lot of people who start companies in the model-making industry, how people just want something interesting and awesome, and model-makers need years of training and what matters is an artistic eye in the end.
Lights vs. data, working with the best architects, and function vs. form
The collaborative ways technology can be used to light a unit while creating tracking data, changes in LED technology, the number of projects Kennedy can work on at the same time, working with some of the best architects in the world and the rigorous process to get engineering material structure, looking beyond structure, and how function precedes form.
Vacuum-forming, Dubai is Disneyland, and sticking to your guns
How models affect the process of choosing or changing materials, a vacuum-form machine forms polymers into a custom form and softens edges. Traveling with his son, why Dubai was like Disneyland, who sees his job as one normal people had, trips to many countries, creating comfort with traveling, new buildings coming up, great architecture, avoiding isolation from creative people, and listening to other people but sticking to your guns.
Podcast: Play in new window | Download (Duration: 43:46 — 60.2MB)
Computerized grading and marking of materials…
Paul Cavazza, Owner of Create-A-Marker (a computerized grading and marking company serving a range of industries – (bio)) joins hosts Stephanie Benedetto and Samanta Cortes at the MouthMedia Network Studios.
Grading and Marking, three generations of factories, and efficiency goals
Cavazza discusses how many industries bring a pattern in, Create-a-Marker digitizes the pattern, and provides a cuttable fabric width of the item, and how the designer or company must provide all the information about the fabric and pattern. He talks about grading the pattern, proportioning it into different sizes, how designers commonly design things that cannot be done, how his company likely has the most software systems for marking of anyone in the US, giving the most compatibility with users’ softwares and also overseas, so the company doesn’t have to turn down business. He looks back at three generations of factories, being in factories his whole life, cutting fabrics since he was 13 years old, and how the industry doesn’t like to change things. In 1993 decided to open of Create a Marker to create a computerized grading and marking service. How they shoot for an 80-85% efficiency marker, and if the manufacturer estimates a certain about of fabric the efficiency must be right or you can ruin a manufacturer. If you come down on estimated yardage, the manufacturer needs to know.
Podcast: Play in new window | Download (Duration: 45:15 — 62.3MB)
3D Printing and Design Innovation for Clothing and Wearables with Sylvia Heisel…
Sylvia Heisel, Fashion Designer, 3D Printing and Design Innovation for Clothing and Wearables (bio), and Creative Director of Heisel, joins Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto at MouthMedia Network’s studio at VoyagerHQ.
Applying 3D printing to fashion, sustainability and compostable possibilities, sugar-based polyester, and 3D printed jewelry
Heisel reviews how she got her start, but was doing same thing over and over, stopped being creative, and concerned about sustainability issues. How she got into 3D printing and applied it to fashion, how 3D printing wasn’t really a new technology, the first thing she made was customized iPhone cases, and how innovations allowing fast growth are close to mass production of 3D printed clothing. Cool new compostable fabrics, made of sugar and other materials, making the fast fashion trend not harming the planet. How the speed of 3D printing is improving. The first mass market example is the Adidas 3D printed shoe with carbon, economically feasible but not ecologically ideal. 3D printing has been for the development stage. So much material and technical expertise is required for practical application of 3D printing of fashion that were never considerations before. 3D printing offers an opportunity to get jewelry molding right, and the opportunity to re-purpose/recycle discarded materials into 3D printing filament.
Podcast: Play in new window | Download (Duration: 35:39 — 49.1MB)
Performance-based natural, cotton fibers via material science and process technology with Dropel…
Sim Gulati, CoFounder and CEO of Dropel Fabrics, which makes clothing life-proof by developing performance-based natural, cotton fibers through material science and process technology – (bio), joins Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto at MouthMedia Network’s studio at VoyagerHQ.
Bridging science and fashion, functionalizing clothing, and retail applications
Gulati shares the genesis of Dropel, and how Gulati’s background and family’s work was a crucial ingredient, seeing innovation in fabrics but little in natural fabrics. How the goal is to bridge material science and fashion such as stain and oil repellency, wrinkle free, antimicrobial, and use these properties previously reserved for synthetics and apply them to natural fabrics. How in 10 years all clothing can be functionalized even at a nano-fiber level, and the road to that is via advanced fiber modification. Taking scientists with experience with application of fibers along with people who are supply chain experts, and taking materials science breakthroughs and applying them into the retail environment. Specific retail applications and campaigns, socializing the idea of innovative textiles in the market, and positioning Dropel as a materials science innovation arm for retailers — such as a hydrophobic cotton that both resists on the outside and picks up moisture on the inside.
Podcast: Play in new window | Download (Duration: 31:42 — 44.5MB)
Man-made cellulose fibers with Lenzing Fibers…
Tricia Carey, Director of Global Business Development for Lenzing Fibers, a company manufacturing and marketing man-made cellulose fibers (bio), joins Stephanie Benedetto, Samanta Cortes and guest host Marc Raco on location at TexWorld USA 2017.
TexWorld, measuring softness, and blending
Carey discusses Lenzing’s man-made cellulosic fiber, all from wood pulp from trees, which are ingredients of manufacturers and retailers around the world. She shares how being at shows like TexWorld allows convening, getting together with industries, yarn spinners and fabric mills, exchanging info, and how nothing takes the place of face to face meetings. The Lenzing Innovation Center, highlighting a new fabric concept TENCEL blended with wool for premium fabrics for high-end fashion. A focus on softness, with a measurement of softness demonstration between two fabrics, how everyone is looking to call out the value a garment has and being able to quantify claims, how there is great compatibility to blend with other fibers, blending as a huge trend, creating a unique mix that adds performance, strength or softness to garment.
Podcast: Play in new window | Download (Duration: 54:24 — 74.9MB)
Modern uses for embroidery Machines with ZSK…
Julius Sobizack (President of ZSK Stickmaschinen (ZSK Embroidery Machines), the market leader in single and multi-head industrial embroidery machines) joins hosts Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto in the MouthMedia Network Studio at Voyager HQ.
New uses in manufacturing, 3D printing vs. embroidery, and zig-zag stitches
Sobizack discusses developing what was there before on the field of technical embroidery to create a new field solving 21st Century problems. Logos, lettering, embellishments are also a big industry of embroidery, and used in fashion and the home textile world. Heated car seats a great example of the use of embroidery, with wires stitched to foam or backing that is electrified and heats the seats. Different kinds of embroidery heads with different functions, a wide variety of materials that can be laid down “fixing” with a zig-zag stitch, a “wire hit” detection system to avoid undetected damage, creating electrodes for the wearable market, why embroidery machines are used for these jobs, and how frames can move in X and Y directions with almost no loss of very expensive material. ZSK producing the machine, consulting and supporting work for customers, comparing laying down of fiber vs. 3d printing, and how embroidery requires more human interaction than 3D printing and other methods.
Podcast: Play in new window | Download (Duration: 45:28 — 62.6MB)
Cotton, textiles, and sustainability…
Jeff Wilson (Director of Business Value Strategy & Development for Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit organization that works to make the textile industry more sustainable – bio) and Daren Abney (Membership Engagement Manager of Better Cotton Initiative, a not-for-profit organization stewarding the global standards for better cotton – bio) join Stephanie Benedetto, Samanta Cortes and guest host Marc Raco on location at TexWorld USA 2017.
Sustainability vs. business needs, the need for a metric, and adopting standards
Abney reviews being a proponent of making cotton production better for the environment and better for the cotton sector future, how BCI has transformed 11.9% of the global market as licensed Better Cotton, out of the goal of 30% by 2020. A Better Cotton standard system, a holistic approach to sustainability with emphasis on business, and a funding mechanism that funds field projects worldwide. Wilson talks about creating overall public good on standards, textiles, and supply chain including certification. How BCI, headquarted in Geneva Switzerland, is a member of Textile Exchange, which is also a member of BCI. Common goals of sustainability, commonality of vision and results, helping membership (brands) understand environmental impacts of primary materials, and how preferred materials would change that impact. Looking at ways established brands are approached vs. smaller brands. BCI’s continuous improvement and metric for change at the agricultural crop level, and considering that the Top 10 commodities impacting WWF include cotton. A look at Textile Exchange developing standards associated with given fibers or materials, what constitutes a certifiable material, wool as largely an animal rights standard, and a new way to be thinking about sustainability.
Podcast: Play in new window | Download (Duration: 28:42 — 40.3MB)
Inside Premiere Vision, a global textile event…
Guglielmo Olearo (bio), International Exhibitions Director of Premiere Vision (the global textile event for North American fashion professionals) joins hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Marc Raco on location at Premiere Vision 2016 in New York.
History, passion, and learning from Italian fashion culture
Olearo discusses being in charge of development of international showrooms, and the birth of Premiere Vision in 1973, its growth into an international show, the desire of wanting to see collections in advance, and the most recent expansion in Istanbul. He talks about different shows for specific markets, his passion for textile and fantastic material in Italy, coming from a background in engineering for chemical materials, always waning to work in the fashion industry, how with emotion and passion everything is possible, and a common deep love for the textile industry. The love for redefining industry products every six months, and the exciting challenge of re-designing and innovating the show every six month. Italian culture, and respect for Italian designers want to learn about materials and build from there. The Italian tradition of developing a sense of aesthetics, and being an industry which starts with care of the detail. And the draw of knowing how to transform something that is 2D to 3D.