009 – Julius Sobizack of ZSK Embroidery Machines – Old Makes New Possible

Modern uses for embroidery Machines with ZSK…

Julius Sobizack (President of ZSK Stickmaschinen (ZSK Embroidery Machines), the market leader in single and multi-head industrial embroidery machines) joins hosts Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto in the MouthMedia Network Studio at Voyager HQ.

New uses in manufacturing, 3D printing vs. embroidery, and zig-zag stitches

Sobizack discusses developing what was there before on the field of technical embroidery to create a new field solving 21st Century problems. Logos, lettering, embellishments are also a big industry of embroidery, and used in fashion and the home textile world. Heated car seats a great example of the use of embroidery, with wires stitched to foam or backing that is electrified and heats the seats. Different kinds of embroidery heads with different functions, a wide variety of materials that can be laid down “fixing” with a zig-zag stitch, a “wire hit” detection system to avoid undetected damage, creating electrodes for the wearable market, why embroidery machines are used for these jobs, and how frames can move in X and Y directions with almost no loss of very expensive material. ZSK producing the machine, consulting and supporting work for customers, comparing laying down of fiber vs. 3d printing, and how embroidery requires more human interaction than 3D printing and other methods.

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008 – Jeff Wilson of Textile Exchange and Daren Abney of Better Cotton Initiative – Better Cotton, Better World

Cotton, textiles, and sustainability…

Jeff Wilson (Director of Business Value Strategy & Development for Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit organization that works to make the textile industry more sustainable – bio) and Daren Abney (Membership Engagement Manager of Better Cotton Initiative, a not-for-profit organization stewarding the global standards for better cotton – bio) join Stephanie Benedetto, Samanta Cortes and guest host Marc Raco on location at TexWorld USA 2017.

Sustainability vs. business needs, the need for a metric, and adopting standards

Abney reviews being a proponent of making cotton production better for the environment and better for the cotton sector future, how BCI has transformed 11.9% of the global market as licensed Better Cotton, out of the goal of 30% by 2020. A Better Cotton standard system, a holistic approach to sustainability with emphasis on business, and a funding mechanism that funds field projects worldwide. Wilson talks about creating overall public good on standards, textiles, and supply chain including certification. How BCI, headquarted in Geneva Switzerland, is a member of Textile Exchange, which is also a member of BCI. Common goals of sustainability, commonality of vision and results, helping membership (brands) understand environmental impacts of primary materials, and how preferred materials would change that impact. Looking at ways established brands are approached vs. smaller brands. BCI’s continuous improvement and metric for change at the agricultural crop level, and considering that the Top 10 commodities impacting WWF include cotton. A look at Textile Exchange developing standards associated with given fibers or materials, what constitutes a certifiable material, wool as largely an animal rights standard, and a new way to be thinking about sustainability.

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007 – Guglielmo Olearo – A Deep Love for Materials

Inside Premiere Vision, a global textile event…

Guglielmo Olearo (bio), International Exhibitions Director of Premiere Vision (the global textile event for North American fashion professionals) joins hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Marc Raco on location at Premiere Vision 2016 in New York.

History, passion, and learning from Italian fashion culture

Olearo discusses being in charge of development of international showrooms, and the birth of Premiere Vision in 1973, its growth into an international show, the desire of wanting to see collections in advance, and the most recent expansion in Istanbul. He talks about different shows for specific markets, his passion for textile and fantastic material in Italy, coming from a background in engineering for chemical materials, always waning to work in the fashion industry, how with emotion and passion everything is possible, and a common deep love for the textile industry. The love for redefining industry products every six months, and the exciting challenge of re-designing and innovating the show every six month. Italian culture, and respect for Italian designers want to learn about materials and build from there. The Italian tradition of developing a sense of aesthetics, and being an industry which starts with care of the detail. And the draw of knowing how to transform something that is 2D to 3D.

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006 – Ellie Skeele and Pierre Schmitt – Loving Himalayan Nettle

Himalayan nettle fibers…

Ellie Skeele (Founder and President of Himalayan Wild Fibers) and Pierre Schmitt (President, Philea Textiles) join hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto on location at Premiere Vision 2016 in New York.

Deadly cotton, Hemp for Victory, and the beauty of nettle

Skeele and Schmitt discuss textiles and how materials make a difference, how behind fashion is material, how we have lost contact with material, and why cotton is a deadly material with Schmitt saying 5-10,000 liters of water are used per pair of jeans, and with 30-50% of pesticides used just for cotton plantations worldwide. The way most of the textile culture has been lost, “Hemp for Victory”, how hemp was a natural local plant excellent for the environment, and why everyone should care about natural fibers that have no impact on environment.

How Himalayan nettle doesn’t need any water, or care with fertilizer, and how it is excellent for the body. Looking at how the whole textile industry was killed by cotton, which doesn’t grow in Europe, and how so many use cotton without thinking about the impact on the environment. Rediscovering beauty of nettle, how Himalayan nettle is very closely related to common nettle, how it evolved at altitude and grows only in forests with tree cover, is over 3 meters tall and perfectly sustainable with very few inputs. Examining that the fiber is the longest known to man to date, hollow, resilient and springy with a hollow core, comparable to cotton, grows in harsh climate, goes through changes in temp and rainfall to grow, resulting a very strong fiber.

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005 – Giusy Bettoni of CLASS – Sustainable Material is Classy

Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy in materials with CLASS…

Giusy Bettoni  (bio), CEO of CLASS (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), a multi-platform global network showcasing exclusive textiles and materials created using smarter sustainable technology for everyone from business, designers, media and buyers, joins hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto on location at Premiere Vision 2016 in New York.

Innovation, critical cotton, and recuperating fibers

Bettoni discusses creativity, innovation, taste, and culture, and the relationship of needing to develop something to the whole vision of make fashion. How Italians are advanced. The definition of innovation, sustainable textiles, CLASS, material libraries, how cotton is the most used and critical fiber, working with spinner, recuperating discarded cotton fibers and turning them into a smart cotton while saving 67% of water with zero waste.

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004 – Ileang Lee of Nike – Magic Feet

Footwear material development at Nike…

Ileang Lee (bio), Material Developer, NSW Running, Global Footwear Materials for Nike, joins hosts Stephanie Benedetto, Rob Sanchez, and Samanta Cortes on location at ThoughtWorks.

A 3 year plan, flyknit, and Air Force 1

Lee discusses developing materials for tan entire category, working with 150+ models, planning Nike’s 3-year game plan in advance, Nike’s target to become a $50 Billion company by 2020, the innovation and developing of materials, the strict testing for materials for use at Nike, developing materials that sustain the aesthetics of the shoe, testing out to the future, and Nike’s advanced product creation center. Flyknit as an amazing piece of material with no wastage but expensive to produce knitted to shape, and improves performance due to lightweight, the magic of “flying” in footwear, and how everyone should look out for the Air Force 1’s.

Being Australian, sustainable materials, and the Making app

Being Australian and working as Senior Product Development Project Manager at Stoll America. What matters most in speed to market, what Lee will be looking at when at material shows, reusable and recyclable materials, bringing back heritage models, how midsoles are reusable and recycled, what the dream is with fabrics, breathability considerations with fibers, moving toward development to shape to minimize wastage, what designers should be thinking of when entering foot market, and Sneakerheads. How materials are steered by consumers vs. how much consumer desire steered by developer of shoes. Leather growth, mushroom growth, bio and degradable materials being used in shoes, sustainable leather, chemical polymers, dyes without water, and bottles spun into threads. Nike making sure of proper work environment in international sourcing or manufacturing, cost engineers, and the app “Making” from Nike.

Training, waterfalls and favorites

A segment of “Remnants” offers personal questions covering training her father’s staff and serving customers as a child, chasing waterfalls, and favorite footwear.

003 – Sabine Le Chatelier of Premiere Vision – The Lively Flow of Materials and Fashion

In-house fashion team at global textile event with Premiere Vision…

Sabine Le Chatelier (bio), Associate Fashion Director of Premiere Vision (the global textile event for North American fashion professionals) joins hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Marc Raco on location at Premiere Vision 2016 in New York.

In-house fashion, fashion identity, and sharing ideas

Le Chatelier shares the nature and purpose of the fashion team at this trade show, as a unique internal, in-house fashion team, and as part of the DNA of Premier Vision. How brands can source material for upcoming garment collections, the path of constructing and creating the fashion identity of the season every six months, and the particular process based on international meetings and gathering and sharing ideas and concerns about the future.

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Special Report – EcoChic Design Award Comes to USA – with Christina Dean of Redress

Christina Dean (bio), CEO of Redress, joins Marc Raco (host of Fashion Is Your Business podcast) for a Special Report on news that The EcoChic Design Award 2017 has become available in the United States for the first time in its seven year history. The EcoChic Design Award 2017, developed and is organized by Redress, is open to emerging designers and students with less than 3 years’ experience who currently live in Asia, Europe or the USA.

According to its website, Redress is an NGO established in Hong Kong in 2007 , “with a mission to promote environmental sustainability in the fashion industry by reducing textile waste, pollution, water and energy consumption. They achieve this by educational sustainable fashion shows, exhibitions, competitions, seminars, research and via their recycled clothing standard. Their profile allows them to collaborate with a wide range of stakeholders, including fashion designers, textile and garment manufacturers, brands and retailers, schools and universities, multilateral organizations, governments, NGOs, financial institutions and media organizations. Working with their partners, Redress aims to enhance, educate and enable the adoption of a more sustainable fashion industry that will help to minimize the negative impact and maximize the positive impact of the fashion industry on society and the environment.”

002 – Chris Hipps of Archroma – Full of Color

Color-matching and dyes…

Chris Hipps (bio), Global Director of Archroma Color Management, joins hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto on location at Premiere Vision 2016 in New York.

Supply chains, lighting, and information meets color

Hipps discusses the work that Archroma does in custom color dying and custom matching, making sure colors can be made in the supply chain, and producing products that designers use to create pallets and matching colors. How color is one of the first things customers see, how Archroma works with pretty much everyone in mass, including specialty, outdoor, swimwear, and touches every product category. Larger companies are more developed with processes. Hipps loves educating and helping to streamline processes. Importance considerations of lighting, how inspiration comes at a high level and then executed on many different materials, different dyes used for different materials. Finding a target color achievable on multiple substrates. And the way Archoma is as much in the information business as in the color business, connecting the physical swatch to web for additional information, making information mobile-accessible, and the technology of color.
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001 – Eric Sauma of Mood Fabrics – Fabric Family

Fabric stores with Mood Fabrics…

Eric Sauma (bio), co-owner of Mood Fabrics (a family business fabric store with classes which is the number-one shopping destination for fashion fabric in the world with more than 1,200 customers daily) joins hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto for the first episode of a podcast about materials sciences and processes.

A family business, trends, and the genesis of Mood Fabrics

Sauma discusses the nature of this family business, evolving from wholesale to retail, how the business is all he knows, touching new fabrics from all over the world, and how the business inspires the entire family. At core of business are smaller designers who can’t get materials directly from manufacturers at low quantity, how content and materials are curated, touching and feeling every piece of fabric that comes into the store to marinating quality, buying power allows them to buy variety in smaller increments, working from decades-long relationships with suppliers, a shift/change to the willingness to accept lower minimums, how digital printing allows printing on smaller increments, implementing an ERP system allowed find out patterns of what fabrics are trending, and the ability to anticipate having inventory. What’s trending now, and how technical fabrics are booming. The story of Mood Fabrics with a genesis in giving up in one business creating another, and how it became a family business.
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