013 – Paul Cavazza of Create-A-Marker – On Your Mark, Get Set, Cut

Computerized grading and marking of materials…

Paul Cavazza, Owner of Create-A-Marker (a computerized grading and marking company serving a range of industries – (bio)) joins hosts Stephanie Benedetto and Samanta Cortes at the MouthMedia Network Studios.

Grading and Marking, three generations of factories, and efficiency goals

Cavazza discusses how many industries bring a pattern in, Create-a-Marker digitizes the pattern, and provides a cuttable fabric width of the item, and how the designer or company must provide all the information about the fabric and pattern. He talks about grading the pattern, proportioning it into different sizes, how designers commonly design things that cannot be done, how his company likely has the most software systems for marking of anyone in the US, giving the most compatibility with users’ softwares and also overseas, so the company doesn’t have to turn down business. He looks back at three generations of factories, being in factories his whole life, cutting fabrics since he was 13 years old, and how the industry doesn’t like to change things. In 1993 decided to open of Create a Marker to create a computerized grading and marking service. How they shoot for an 80-85% efficiency marker, and if the manufacturer estimates a certain about of fabric the efficiency must be right or you can ruin a manufacturer. If you come down on estimated yardage, the manufacturer needs to know.

Manufacturing in NY, 3D fitting and pattern-making, and maximizing accuracy

Co-founding the Save the Garment Center, bringing back manufacturing in NY, and a strong push back for Made in NY. Pattern-making coming back to NY which means grading coming back to NY. 3D pattern-making and 3D fitting will be coming in next few months, how Cavazza is excited, one of the largest costs is making samples, fit models, and needing even more samples to get it right. A 3D avatar can show how a garment and pattern looks and put it in action and see how it looks in movement, and a designer can look at it on 3D to see if they really like how that garment or fabric looks and make adjustments, streamlining designs and focusing on the garment. Once fitted on avatar you can cut to 99% accuracy, minimizing waste in process and reducing cost.

Multiple industries, a goal for the future, and the best pizza in NY

Other industries, medical, (i.e. crutches) automotive (i.e., car seats, steering wheels), a nine feet tall teddy bear, sails, and parachutes. What creates complexity, size and special placements within specific design of fabric. Upholstery and furniture businesses, very global, and stuffed animals. Best practices and tools for students, teaching at FIT because he is seeing more and more people coming into the industry that never took fashion design, how there is amazing technology out there, such as sewing machines with laptops in Germany. Cavazza’s four companies including a paper company and a converting operation for converting paper, and how Create-A-Marker could open a computerized cutting room as a goal, building a state of the art factory that would blow minds, with nothing in NYC, and Europe currently having an edge. What happens after you cut the marker, the Amalfi Coast, not sleeping in Italy, the most surprising best pizza in NYC, bridal marking, going after technology and changing business, and not resisting change.

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